New York Fashion Week: Designs aim to lift mood says designer Michael Kors

New York Fashion Week: Designs aim to lift mood says designer Michael Kors


Just because times may be tough doesn’t mean women want to wear shrouds,” stated American fashion designer Michael Kors backstage, amid racks of some of the most optimistic clothes to hit the runways of New York fashion week.

“We’ve got to remember what a mood transformer fashion can be,” he pointed out. “Put something bright and beautiful on, and your whole attitude changes.” That’s certainly the theory behind fashion these days, unlike years gone by, when clothes were seen as a barometer of our socio-political climate.

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And so, in defiance of America’s current uncertainty, the wildly successful Kors sent out a graphic collection inspired by West Coast architecture. His sharp tailoring and riffs on horizontal and vertical, thick and thin stripes, indicated this designer’s vision is crystal clear.

The modern, graphic approach to spring prevailed in other collections, too, most notably Marc Jacobs, whose bold offering was a complete turnaround from last season’s heavy play on Victoriana. In one of the most striking shows of the week, Jacobs took on a ’60s op art sensibility with his play on stripes, mostly in black in white, but also in beige and white and Bordeaux and white combos. The renegade designer also toyed with lengths, and dished out some yummy minis. Low slung skirts, dramatic column gowns, and a sequined black and white striped jumpsuit were all standouts, with footwear mostly low-heeled and pointy-toed. For his more accessible Marc collection, aimed at cool girls, platform shoes and sandals were worn with heavy socks, in a patchwork mix of checks and patterns that was brave, colourful, and ultimately relaxed.

Designer sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy — their label is Rodarte — concocted imaginative outfits fit for a female knight. Front row guest Kirsten Dunst lapped up their Medieval fantasy fare, which had a bit of a sci-fi attitude. It included princess gowns and came in a variety of fabrications, from leather, pewter lame, brocades and chiffon to lace and crochet knits. Fringed leather jackets and one pair of tight leather lace-up pants, which sported rows of grommets, gave the collection a sexy edge, but knowing the Mulleavy sisters, it was romance that ultimately drove their creative steed.

At J Crew models styled like the label’s president, Jenna Lyons, in sleek ponytails and geek chic glasses, sported a colourful assortment of quirky pieces, jammed together in sassy ways. Brocade short shorts and blazers, striped shirts and floral print pants, pajama tops and skinny skirts.

Some designers still insist on sticking with just plain pretty. In that department, it’s hard to beat Oscar de la Renta. This season, he did get a little risqué with a couple of red latex garments. But overall, beautiful pieces like his macramé embroidered jacket, ribbon-embroidered dresses, evening jumpsuits, cocktail shorts and magnificent striped ball gowns reminded us why the man is a master.

Eastern influences inspired exotica on the catwalk, and at least two collections were inspired by India. Vera Wang played with shades of azure, cypress green, chartreuse, amethyst, and navy, and went to town with gold embroidered lace. The results were gorgeous, with damasks, brocades, jacquards, and chiffons all blossoming at the hand of the designer. At Marchesa, Georgina Chapman and her partner Karen Craig took their cues from the spirit of India in the ‘60s, citing the Beatles’ experience with the Maharishi as having informed their lovely collection. Ornate embroideries and jewel embellishments adorned gowns and dresses in lace, tulle, and brocade, and colour ran the gamut from chartreuse and teal to garnet, fuschia, coral and hot pink. Silk fringes added to the sensuality, and kitten-heel shoes punched up the ‘60s sensibility in this ultra luxe vision of red carpet exotica.

Exotic luxe was also the driving force behind Jeremy Scott’s edgy “Arab Spring” collection, and the irreverence that Scott is famous for surfaced in spades. “He’s opening the show with a burka,” screamed PR guru Kelly Cutrone backstage. Scott’s iconic print for the season was a whimsical combo of dollar logos, gilt and leopard, and his shiny bikini and over-the-knee boots, aqua snakeskin baseball shirt and flowing chiffon harem pants, all topped off with baseball caps, was a bazaar of eye candy. Canada’s own Jeremy Laing did us proud in the Big Apple once again with a strong array of silky architectural fare. His marshmallow white boxy garments, some constructed of pieces which snapped together, featured graphic strips of metallic beaded embroidery.

Meanwhile at Proenza Schouler, designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCullough’s play on leather and snakeskin made for spectacular garments . Inspired by the German painter Gerhard Richter, who produces paintings both abstract and photorealistic, Hernandez and McCullough dove into bright reds, greens, and blues, creating patchwork and perforated pieces that were absolute stand-outs.

So whether it’s graphic images, bold colours, brave cuts, or something as simple as razor sharp tailoring, Spring 2013 is shaping up to be a season of strong statements with a cacophony of clothes that are bound to be as empowering as they are mood transforming.