Monday, November 12, 2012

Lauren Laverne on plus-size fashion


Has there ever been a more gag-inducing phrase than "celebrate your curves"? It is the apotheosis of its particular genre: poisonous, simpering, pass-agg tabloidese. Every time I read it (currently around thrice per hour) I feel like I'm going to barf up a lung.

It's not just the faux-friendly tone that annoys. It's the casual co-option of a righteous concept (women of all sizes looking great, feeling happy in their skin) by the primary source of judgment and snark in British culture today. It's the delineation between women and their bodies (their "curves" are not just… them). It's the implicit reminder that the supposed "celebrant" is being looked at, always. A chummy phrase coined by the worst best friend ever: it takes something beautiful, smashes it to bits, then wraps a bow around it and tries to give it back to you as a birthday present.

I feel sad when I hear women using it sincerely, I can't help wishing they had words of their own. It's understandable, though. Despite having more than a quarter of a million distinct words, the English language includes few complimentary descriptions of a sizeable female body. Comely? Ample? Lusty? Buxom? No ta. And you can keep your comparative adjectives: "Larger" ladies? "Plus" size? Plus what? No wonder we had to steal the Yiddish word zaftig. It really is the only one I'd be happy to wear.

As you might have guessed, this week I'm focusing on fashion for size-16s and above. If this is you, read on and please do send feedback. It is a topic we're bound to return to soon.

Size and shape are two different things. If you're an hourglass (of any size) Katya Wildman's creations will look old-school fabulous on you. Of course, not everybody with bosoms to put Christina Hendricks in the shade wants to look retro. Saint Bustier specialises in cuts of all kinds for cup sizes D to H.

As a fan, I'm disappointed that Topshop caters for tall, short, pregnant women and infants, but for some reason finds it impossible to stock its main line beyond a 16. Asos is ahead of the game here: Curve runs to a 26.

Clements Ribeiro sharpens up Evans's style credentials with gems like this kimono dress and Simply Be has upped its game lately, with offerings like these on-trend trews.

Beyond the high street, many designers are opening their eyes (and tills) to the demand for high-end fashion over size-14. How pleasing to see that Net-a-porter stock items up to a 20, including Marc Jacobs.

Finally, for something different, try Navabi – a site with a great mix of designers including Anna Scholz and Parisian label Manon Baptiste.

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